A tech pack is the instruction manual for a garment. It tells the pattern maker what to build, how big it should be, and how it should be put together. When something is missing, the pattern maker has to guess, and every guess is a potential correction later in sampling.
You do not need a perfect tech pack to start. But the more of the points below you can cover, the fewer rounds of samples you are likely to need.
1. Clear flat sketches, front and back
Flats are technical drawings, not fashion illustrations. They should show the garment laid flat, front and back, with every seam, dart, pleat, pocket, placket and closure drawn where it actually sits.
Add close-ups for anything detailed: a collar shape, a cuff, a pocket construction. If a detail is not drawn, it is open to interpretation.
2. A measurement chart with points of measure
This is the most important page for pattern development. A good measurement chart includes:
- Points of measure (POMs): chest, waist, hip, length, shoulder, sleeve length, armhole, and so on, each with a short description of exactly where it is measured from and to.
- The base size, the size the first pattern and sample will be made in.
- Tolerances, how far each measurement may vary and still pass.
- The full size range, if grading will follow.
"Chest: 54 cm" is not enough on its own. Is it measured 2.5 cm below the armhole, or at the fullest point? Is it the full circumference or half? Write it down.
3. Fit intent
Measurements say how big. Fit intent says how it should feel. Slim, regular, relaxed or oversized? Should the shoulder sit on the natural shoulder line or drop below it? Is the garment worn over another layer?
A reference garment that already fits the way you want is one of the most useful things you can share.
4. Fabric information
Pattern decisions depend on fabric behaviour. Include:
- Fabric type and composition (for example 100% cotton poplin, or cotton–elastane jersey)
- Weight (GSM) and usable width
- Stretch, if any, and in which direction
- Shrinkage, if it has been tested, and whether the garment will be washed after making
Shrinkage matters more than most people expect. A fabric that shrinks a few percent in washing needs that allowance built into the pattern.
5. Construction details
How will the garment be sewn? Note seam types and finishes, seam allowances if you have a preference, topstitching distances, interfacing areas, and closures such as buttons, zips or snaps with their sizes and positions.
6. Trims and labels
List buttons, zips, elastics, tapes and labels, with sizes and placements. A 20 mm button and a 15 mm button need different buttonhole and placket decisions.
7. A short development brief
One paragraph covering what you need from the project. A pattern only? A pattern and a sample? Grading into a size range? A production marker? Knowing the end goal helps plan the work in the right order.
What if your tech pack is incomplete?
That is common, especially for startups and new collections. Many projects begin with a sketch, a reference garment, an existing pattern or a sample with fit issues.
The useful thing is to share what you have and say what is missing. A technical review at the start identifies the gaps before pattern work begins, which is far cheaper than discovering them at the sample stage.
A clear tech pack does not slow development down. It removes the guesswork that causes repeat samples.
Ready to start?
If you have a tech pack, or even part of one, you can send it to us for review. If you are not sure where to begin, tell us what you have and we will suggest the next step.